Previous Challenge Entry (Level 4 – Masters)
Topic: FALSE (04/15/21)
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TITLE: Surfer's Corner | Previous Challenge Entry
By Corinne Smelker
04/22/21 -
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“Whoa! That was close!” I yelled over the sound of the crashing wave as I grabbed hold of my board.
“Yeah!” Alice laughed as she spat out a mouthful of salt water. Even though her blonde hair was scraped away from her face, wisps of it had lovingly wrapped themselves around her neck and shoulders. She slicked it back from her wetsuit, before grasping her board firmly in both hands.
“Wanna go again?”
The look she gave me spoke for her.
“Ok, let’s go!” I said.
We lay on our boards and navigated out beyond the breakwaters. This portion of the large bay was replete with sandy beaches, crowded in the summer months with visiting tourists, but this section of the bay was quieter, known as ‘Surfer’s Corner’ it soon weeded out the ‘kooks’, or the wanna-be surfers from people like us.
There was a lull in the waves, this was common for this section of the inlet, so we straddled our boards and watched the ocean, the beach to our backs. We knew a good lineup would be along soon. The thing to watch for though was the bogus wave, the beguiling one that would seem to form perfectly, but in the end turned into a closeout, giving no shoulder or barrel to ride.
This was my favourite time of day; I looked out into the ocean and saw the tendrils of dawn’s early light begin to intertwine with waves, making it both moody and mysterious. My board moved softly in the water, bobbing gently. Out here, in the early morning my world always came into focus. Here it was that I could talk to the Lord, find my true bearings in a world that was spurious and specious.
My attention was drawn to my board which had started bobbing frantically in the water. Alice, lost in her thoughts as I had been, said, “Here they come.”
In synchronicity we turned our boards around and lay down, craning our heads behind us to catch sight of the increasing swells. As the sun broke the horizon, so did a massive wave. In a flash we both took off, seeking the rush of the perfect barrel and riding inside the wave. In that moment nothing else mattered. In that wave was pure joy, and elation. There was nothing but foam, water, sand and me. In this perfection there was God.
Once Alice and I rode the wave to the shoreline we called it a day. Like a rogue wave, the responsibilities of life were to crash down on us again; but tomorrow, as a beacon of hope, Surfer’s Corner would be waiting for us.
I loaded my board on my car and as I drove away from False Bay I caught sight of a surfer headed out to find the perfect wave. I prayed that he would find the same peace I did, out there in the midst of the ocean and the waves.
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False Bay is a large bay found on the extreme south-west coast of South Africa. It is renowned for its great surfing and many beautiful beaches.
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